Whereas Alexander Platz is generally horrid and to be avoided, Potsdamer Platz has a lot to offer. The aesthetic, while still fairly harsh, is not so grim as Alex. There are the familiar towering, intimidating buildings, but everything is a lot newer and shiner. And just five minutes from the UBahn is Kulturforum, a cluster of first rate galleries that I have returned to again and again. In the main building there is the Gemäldegalerie (European art from the 13th-18th century), Kunstbibliothek, Kupferstichkabinett (specialises in prints and drawings), and the Kunstgewerbemuseum and just nearby is the Neue Nationalgalerie. I have seen some really excellently curated exhibitions here. The considerable collection of the Kunstbibliothek enables curators to draw on a wide range of artworks to create interesting and in-depth explorations on a theme. 'Von Mehr als einer Welt', art from the enlightenment, was one such. The satirical responses of a number of the artists to the elevation of science and optimism of man's capacity to master nature were particularly memorable. A number of exhibitions this year have dealt with the Englightenment, as it is the 300th anniversary of the birth of Frederick the Great. Another gem, 'Am Rande der Vernuft', communicated the dichotomies and ambiguities within the enlightenment with impressive clarity. I generally prefer seeing curated exhibitions based around a theme, as opposed to a singular artist. However, I very much enjoyed the display of Cornelius Bega's works, a 17th artist from Haarlem, whose depictions of seedy 'drinking dens' carry with them an unambiguous warning of the dangers of drink and bad company. These have probably been my favourite exhibitions, yet I found all that I have seen to be well executed. Kulturforum is also less busy than other more well-known galleries around Berlin, enabling you to enjoy the art in relative peace. I find the cluster of buildings quite striking, modern in style with the St. Matthäus Church an impressive contrast.


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