Rome

My time in Berlin is almost at an end (for now, anyway) and I wanted to take advantage of cheap flights to see a little more of Europe. Italy was at the top of my list, and flights to Rome, being such a popular tourist destination, were the cheapest. The first thing that struck me upon my arrival to the city was the strange but beautiful juxtaposition of ancient ruins, medieval and renaissance churches and the more 'modern' architecture. A harmonious mash up of the last 2500 years. 

Despite being so firmly identified with its glorious past, the city feels young, vibrant and lively. There was no trace of the weariness or sadness that I had sensed in Prague. I very much enjoyed the italian exuberance, though feel it would perhaps exhaust me if I were exposed to it for too long. My favourite aspects of the city were the narrow backstreets of Centro Storico and the excellent bakeries found there, the gloriously decadent churches to which entry was free, and the Vatican Museums, at which I was not able to spend enough time. 

I have long thought that the Italians eat the best food in the world, and in addition to the city's historical and artistic richness, I couldn't wait to sample the pizza, pasta and gelato. I did indeed eat exquisite pizza (Pizzarium, Da Remo), sublime gelato (Il Gelato), excellent pastries (Forno Campo de'Fiori, Antico Forno Roscioli) and drank a lot of red wine, as one should when in Rome. I can't wait to go back and to explore more of Italy, a country to which I have a strong attraction. 

My new favourite trees! 

The lovely warm colours of Rome. 

So simple but the most delicious biscuits I have ever tasted. 

Turkish Markets

I was aware of the Turkish market, held on Tuesdays and Fridays along the Landwehrkanal, before I arrived in Berlin, and was very excited to be living nearby. They are a genuine market, chaotic, crowded, and a little overwhelming. After the novelty wore off however, my desire to fight the crowds, be trolly-rammed by unapologetic Turkish women, and get elbowed in the face by frustrated shoppers, diminished somewhat. The produce was as cheap as chips but more often than not, overwhelmed by choice, I'd come home with something I didn't need or of questionable quality. But, I gradually made my way back. Now I have my regular fruit and veg stall, hummus, cheese and bread stalls. I spend 3-4 euros max and am loaded with goods. It is best to go early, just as the market is opening, particularly if you want to browse. In the warmer months it is a great place to pick up some dips, olives and fruit for a picnic by the canal. 

I'm not sure what they do with them, but every week I see crowds of people leaving the market with bags full to the brim with limes. 

A lot of what is on offer has travelled a fair distance, bananas from Costa Rica, avocados from Peru, garlic from China. A good chunk comes from Spain, ostensibly the food bowl of Western Europe. But a couple of stores stock mostly German produce, one exclusively, direct from the farm. A lot of snide comments are made about German fruit and veg, but I have been consistently impressed by the seasonal offerings. Asparagus and strawberries in Spring, Plums in late summer. Autumn is an especially prolific period with delicious walnuts, apples, brussel sprouts, potatoes and pumpkins on offer for next to nothing.

The quantity of imported produce does make for a very colourful market. 

Victoria Park

I had been told a while ago that a visit to Victoria Park was worthwhile, and finally rode over there a couple of weeks ago, though it felt a little like a duty. The effort, however, was well worth it. Narrow, winding paths bordered by tall trees lead up a steep hill, down which falls a beautiful waterfall. The park has an air of magic to it, like the forests in an Enid Blyton or Tolkien novel. At the top of the hill is the impressive 19th century cast iron dedication to liberty, and a spectacular panoramic view of the city.