Berlin is not a city renowned for its gastronomy, unless you're talking curry-wurst and kebabs. There is indeed no shortage of unappealing places to dine, where skewered hunks of animal flesh and questionable condiments reign supreme. However, cheap rent and strong demand for an alternative means that there are also plenty of excellent spots on offer. I have been in Berlin for two months now, and live in 'Kreuzköln' (just on the boarder of Kreuzberg and Neuköln). Before the Wall came down the area was apparently pretty desolate as it was close to East Berlin. A number of people have also told me that 15 years ago it was a no-go zone. This is hard for me to imagine as the area is now a thriving hub of activity. It is the destination of choice for ex-pat hipsters and the backstreets are dotted with trendy bars, cafes and restaurants. I am a sucker for self-consciously unique cafes who pepper their menus with descriptors such as 'regional', 'seasonal' and 'homemade'; places where they seem sincerely interested in producing good food, not just churning out sub-standard fare for the masses. It is interesting, and not at all helpful for my German, that a lot of these places around me have been established by foreigners; Americans, Brits or even Australians. At any rate, I have listed a few gems below.
The king of Felafel: They serve no meant here, cook the felafel to order and you always get a different mix of veggies and salad with your wrap. They are a filling, healthy and well rounded meal for only 3 euro. I do worry a little about the tiny old lady eternally at the counter who seems to work like a slave. And I'm not sure she washes her hands more than once a week. But sitting on the bank of the canal on a sunny day munching on a wrap filled to the brim with fresh salad and warm, moist felafel is enough to quickly dispel these quibbles.
The King of Felafel: Graefeststraße 9, 10967
Il Casolare: Pizza, salad and a beer, I could not think of a finer combination. I was a little worried that i wouldn't be able to find satisfactory pizza in Berlin, after being so spoiled in Sydney (e.g. Lucio's Pizza ad Pizza Mario), but fortuitously I live just around the corner from this fine establishment. Service is brisk and the place is always packed, but I have never failed to find a spot. The pizza is excellent; thin base, tasty sauce and good quality cheese. The mixed salad is generous and the beer is on tap. While my mum was here from Sydney we would share a big salad and a ruccola pizza, which was just the right amount. But its not too difficult to polish off an entire pizza solo.
Il Casolare: Grimmstraße 30, 10967
Tandur Lasan: I was drawn to this otherwise unassuming shop front by the wonderful smell wafting out. Here they prepare fresh tandur bread, one man rolls out the dough into thin, flat discs while the other bakes them in rapid succession by sicking them to the side of a piping hot cylindrical oven built into the bench. A few slices of cool, sharp sheep cheese wrapped up in a hot tandur bread tastes just as good as it smells, and is only 1 euro.
Tandur Lasan: Just near the Maybachufer exit of Schönleinstraße U-Bahn.
Fräuline Frost: For consistently excellent ice-cream, I recommend the Schokolade or Nougat in a waffle cone, and only 1 euro for a scoop. She also gets points for cuteness and sufficient seating. I came here on a stiflingly hot day during my first week in Berlin. There was a queue out the door (often a good sign), I joined it and have not looked back.
Fräuline Frost: Friedelstraße 38, 12047.
Katie's Blue Cat: They often have a number of tasty treats on offer but I must admit I haven't yet moved past the rhubarb cheesecake. Unbeatable paired with a cappuccino on a cool, rainy afternoon.
Katie's Blue Cafe: Friedelstraße 3, 12047.
Croissanterie: You are never far from a croissant in Berlin but often they are of the dry, stale variety. I feel that if you are going to indulge in a croissant it has to be of the finest quality. They come pretty close to this at the Croissanterie, with flaky shells, tender middles and a generous stick of chocolate in the pain au chocolat. Baked fresh throughout the day you can be sure your croissant has not been lying around for too long, it is especially magical when you get one still warm from the oven.
Croissanterie: Pannierstraße 56, 12047.
