Thursday, May 24, 2012

Spargel


It seems almost obligatory at this time of year in Berlin to buy some weiß Spargel (white asparagus). It is absolutely everywhere; in supermarkets, veggie stores, at specialist stands set up in the street, and at open air markets. I had always avoided white asparagus in Australia because I found the idea of it a little pointless. To keep the asparagus from turning green they cover the stalks to shield them from sunlight (I won't risk elaborating on the scientific aspect of this process). I just didn't think the novelty of it justified the price. Over here, I resisted for a couple of weeks but I just couldn't believe how much of it was around. As a newcomer I felt I really ought to experience something that a large chunk of the city seemed to be obsessed with. The lady in whose apartment I am living tells me its important to buy Spargel from Beelitz,  situated just outside Berlin (I hope I have remembered this correctly), as it is fresher. Often that on sale will be from Spain or further abroad and has suffered the consequences of travelling such a long way.

To prepare it you need to shave off a layer of skin using a vegetable peeler and snap off the woody end. The traditional cooking method (which I again learnt from my 'landlady') is to boil the skin shavings in a large pot and then use the cooking water (minus the shavings) to cook the asparagus. This apparently reduces the cooking time and helps lock in the flavour. Ideally the asparagus should be cooked in a tall pot, with their tips just above the water, but I don't think this is essential. Add some salt, sugar and lemon juice to the shavings water and cook the asparagus until tender. Serve with a béchamel sauce or simply with a little salt, pepper and butter. The asparagus does taste wonderful; clean, fresh and sweet (though you do get the occasional bitter one). The thick stalks have a lovely texture, much better than the stringy, thin stalks you often find in Sydney. The season is short, from April to the end of June, so it is important to eat as much of it as you can. I'm glad I can share in the excitement of Spargel, it makes me feel a little bit more a part of this city.

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